Harry Winston

foversta
[PuristSPro Moderator]
20814

• Show profile
• Show other posts

Baselworld 2012: Harry Winston Official Report

After 4 days in Basel, I'm very happy to propose you my Harry Winston report. This report is a wrap-up of the novelties which were unveiled during the Fair but of course, I will come back to these watches later with dedicated posts.

The good point about Harry Winston is the yearly presence in the collection of one of the most awaited watches: Opus. But we don't have to forget that the new collection offers us a wide range of novelties with more affordable prices or playing a different tune.

And this year, it was not so easy to forget it because  Opus 12 is a truly amazing timepiece. On the other hand, it would have been a pity to not have a closer look on the other watches because Harry Winston has managed with these 2012 novelties  to reinforce its collection.

Another point I would like to underline is that other watches will be presented during this year. Expect some surprising surprises but I can't tell you more for the moment.

Let's focus on  this Baselworld 2012 novelties.

But before doing this, we need to enter the booth!





















I would like to start... with a watch which was presented at the end of the previous year. I haven't had the opportunity to show you live pics before so here they come.

The Ocean Sport Automatic is one of the two "Men's" watches of the Ocean Sport permanent collection. If features a 44mm Zalium case, a large display of the date and a quite unusual dial design with a sort of mesh located left side of the dial. We obviously find again the features of the case of the Ocean Sport collection.

This watch is not my cup of tea due to its large size for a three-hands watch even if, thanks to the efficiency of the folding clasp and of the rubber strap, it is quite comfortable on the wrist.





















I decided to speak about it because it gives me the opportunity to present you the Ocean Sport Chronograph LE.

This LE of 300 pieces features the 44mm Zalium case and has a thickness of 14,8mm.

If you remember well, the "permanent" Ocean Sport Chronograph uses a skeletonized dial in order to propose an original design in the Harry Winston context.

The LE houses the same movement (ETA base + DD module) and so gets the same dial lay-out. But what a change of design! Forget the skeletonized dial and let's discover a new dial closer to the spirit of the Ocean Sport Automatic. Strangely, I would have consider this one as the permanent watch and the other one as the LE. In a few words, the opposite of what Harry Winston did.

Anyway, this original dial made of sharp parts, with volumes and open sections works well in this context and I find it more coherent than the other one. I was very convinced by this chronograph and despite the non-exclusive movement, it was a pleasure to play with the pushers thanks to their shapes.













If we forget a few seconds Opus 12, the main event for Harry Winston was the presentation of the new Premier case thanks to the latest version of the Premier Excenter Time Zone.

The new 41mm Premier case is "softer" than the previous one and I consider it as a good achievement as an update. It stills contains all that define the Premier case (the arch-shaped elements, the prominent lugs) but in a quieter context. The question is: doesn't this case lose too much personality by getting closer to the new Midnight one? It is a difficult question... but I'm sure that the previous case needed an update to meet a new success: it was becoming a bit old-fashioned.  So at the end, I think that this new version is a good improvement.

The first watch which uses it is the iconic Excenter Time Zone: you won't be lost by it, we find again the classic dial lay-out with its clever second timezone retrograde hand. Obviously, movement remains the same, i.e GP base + module coming from Agenhor.

The ratio diameter (41mm)/thickness (10,9mm) is high enough to give a slender side even if the Midnight collection is better on this topic.
The Premier Excenter Time Zone is available in PG or WG cases with anthracite or silver dials. Each version has its own charm and I was seduced by their overall elegancy and the dial finishings.





























We stay with the Premier case with the Premier Ladies 36mm.

These Ladies watches are available in WG or PG cases with shimmering white or rose MOP dials and with hour-markers set with 12 diamonds.
You will notice that the arch-shaped elements are more visible here than with the new case of the Time Zone.

These Premier Ladies 36mm are powered with a quartz movement or an automatic one. The automatic watch is thicker (7,2mm vs 6,7mm) than the quartz one.
















But the most charming timepieces were the Premier Feathers. We stay in the same context (Premier 36mm case in WG or PG) but we change the dials. And what a change!

The 4 dials are decorated with marquetery of pheasant or peacock feathers. They require a lot of skills and a lot of time (around 7 hours) to be made. Due to the fragile side of the main material, this is a truly delicate technique and it is the reason why Nelly Saunier, a true virtuose in her art, was in charge of this difficult task.

The result is really impressive, a mix of beauty, fragility and delicacy.
















Perfect on a lady's wrist!




And now... let's speak about the Opus 12!

There are so many things to say about it that I will quickly come back to its main features in a specific post.

How can we say after a first analysis?

Aesthetically speaking, Opus 12 is unique. The watch doesn't have a true dial: the parts dedicated to time display draw the design of the front side of Opus 12. There are a lot of clever details which don't appear at first glance. Let's take the second hand: it is located on the foreground. Look at the hours and 5 minutes displays: they are both peripherical. Look at the main indexes: they use the twelve letters of "Harry Winston".  Look at the very sober power reserve indicator, almost hidden in the center of the watch.

Opus 12 redesigns the concept of the "wandering hours". This time, the hour really wanders around the dial. It does a 13/12 revolution. It is a true joy for the eyes as this revolution requires 17 seconds to be done. Opus 12 is a bit a visual... 5 minutes repeater.

Of course, 46mm is a large diameter. But it is not shocking due to this requirement of the time display. The watch has to be big to make enough space for the rotating elements and the central functions.

On the back, movement proposes us an unusual lay-out in the Harry Winston context. It is a bit a 3/4 circular main plate. It is actually made of 3 different bridges even if 3 curvy lines gives the feeling that 6 bridges are visible. The balance wheel is large (14mm) and the frequency of the movement (2,5hz) give the proof that even if the innovating time display was the main objective, chronometry was not forgotten. Opus 12 movement uses two barrels, one dedicated to the functioning, one to the display. Two differentials are implemented to put into harmony these two separated barrels and to get a reliable power reserve display.

In a few words, Emmanuel Bouchet and his team did a tremendous job with Opus 12. Because I have to tell you what impressed me a lot: several watches were available and working during the Fair. My 6th sense tells me that Opus 12 will be an easier watch to be produced. A clever and efficient conception.


























And of course please find below the movie to see how the time display works:

Site Info.