foversta
[PuristSPro Moderator]
20814
Salon QP 2012: Harry Winston
Like in 2011, Harry Winston was one of main exhibitors at the Salon QP 2012 occupying roughly the same place than the previous year on the groundfloor of the Saatchi Gallery. This presence symbolizes the ambition of Harry Winston on the British Market and the constant will to communicate on the watchmaking collection. I already spoke about Emmanuel Bouchet's conference whose topic was to present the technical details of Opus 12. This conference had the same objective than the large booth: to highlight the constant improvement of the collection and the horological credibility of the offer.
For a quite limited yearly production (let's say around 5000 pieces per year), Harry Winston proposes a wide range of cases and of complication. I propose you with some selected watches to feel this diversity.
As usual, let's start with two pics of the booth.
The Harry Winston UK team welcomed the guests and visitors during the 3 days of the event. The Harry Winston exhibition was only focussed on watches even if some high jewelry watches were displayed:
For a quite limited yearly production (let's say around 5000 pieces per year), Harry Winston proposes a wide range of cases and of complication. I propose you with some selected watches to feel this diversity.
As usual, let's start with two pics of the booth.
The Harry Winston UK team welcomed the guests and visitors during the 3 days of the event. The Harry Winston exhibition was only focussed on watches even if some high jewelry watches were displayed:
As you can see on the screen, the Midnight Automatic Blue dial was one of the stars of the show!
It is the reason why I'm happy to start the report with this version of the Midnight Automatic.
I really like the watch and the blue of the dial... the Harry Winston blue... combines perfectly with the WG case.
We don't have to forget that the Midnight Automatic has a 42mm case which is large for a two hands watch. It is one of the main assets of this blue colour: it reduces the feeling of size.
I really like the watch and the blue of the dial... the Harry Winston blue... combines perfectly with the WG case.
We don't have to forget that the Midnight Automatic has a 42mm case which is large for a two hands watch. It is one of the main assets of this blue colour: it reduces the feeling of size.
But, the blue also changes the overall aesthetic of the Midnight Automatic. The watch seems to be less formal without losing its elegance. Even if the "classic" Midnight Automatic in WG is a fine timepiece, its very sober style can be perceived as too discreet. I don't have the same feeling here. The blue colour thanks to its shades animates the dial what is welcome due to the absence of the second hand:
The caliber remains the GP 3300 with a nice gold rotor. I like this movement due to its excellent winding efficiency.
The 42mm tends to be a bit large but the shape of the lugs has a very positive impact on the overall balance. With the PG case + slate dial version, this Midnight Automatic Blue is maybe my fav Midnight Automatic of the collection.
If you remember well, some new versions of the Ocean Triple Retrograde Chronograph were unveiled several weeks ago.
This PG case version with the darker dial is a true beauty. First of all, I think I don't need much efforts to be convinced. The Triple Retrograde Chronograph which was first released as the Z1 is a very seducing watch thanks to its perfect dial lay-out. The charm and the warm colour of the PG case, the beauty of the dial (look at the slightly different colours of the top "12") makes this version even more appealing:
This PG case version with the darker dial is a true beauty. First of all, I think I don't need much efforts to be convinced. The Triple Retrograde Chronograph which was first released as the Z1 is a very seducing watch thanks to its perfect dial lay-out. The charm and the warm colour of the PG case, the beauty of the dial (look at the slightly different colours of the top "12") makes this version even more appealing:
Movement is based on the Frédéric Piguet 1185 with an additional module by Agenhor:
The perfect dial lay-out and the quality of the dial finishings:
The watch is big and the lugs don't help much in that sense. So the small wrists sadly will have to forget this 44mm watch which is a pity:
I'm less seduced by this black version. I start to be bored by all these black watches and even if this kind of design works quite well here, I much prefer the refined version of the PG case. Actually, I think that the way the light plays with the colours is an important parameter for my choice and a black watch absorbs the light and doesn't reflect it. The Ocean Triple Retrograde Chronograph is at the same time classy and sportive. With the black colour, the sportive side becomes the main one but I'm not sure it is the main purpose of the Ocean collection.
There is a little detail I appreciate: it is the shuriken colour. The shuriken replaces the main second hand becoming a "working indicator" of the watch.
There is a little detail I appreciate: it is the shuriken colour. The shuriken replaces the main second hand becoming a "working indicator" of the watch.
You will notice that the different scales are on the foreground of the main part of the dial while it is the opposite with the PG version:
An unusual watch on the wrist:
I presented you The Ocean Tourbillon Big Date in September.
I will not change my mind. This watch is really hypnotizing.
Of course, it is bulky with its 45,6mm diameter. But at least this large diameter has a positive impact on the design. The Tourbillon has a lot of space around it and so it seems to float in the air:
I will not change my mind. This watch is really hypnotizing.
Of course, it is bulky with its 45,6mm diameter. But at least this large diameter has a positive impact on the design. The Tourbillon has a lot of space around it and so it seems to float in the air:
Look at the shape of the bridges which become thinner and thinner when they come closer to the Tourbillon:
Movement is based on a Dimier Tourbillon caliber with a 110 hours power reserve:
I can spend hours watching the Tourbillon:
Opus 12 was one of the key watches of Basel. At the very beginning people were surprised by the necessity to use 27 hands to display the time. Once they saw and understood the way the watch worked, they changed their mind!
Opus 12 is a true wandering hours watch, I mean that we have the feeling that the hours hand stars to walk around the dial, to do a full rotation before findind its right position:
Opus 12 is a true wandering hours watch, I mean that we have the feeling that the hours hand stars to walk around the dial, to do a full rotation before findind its right position:
The blue hands are dedicated to time display while the white one is dedicated to power reserve:
The bridges of the movement with its circular Geneva stripes and the large balance bridge.
The Opus 12 diameter is 46mm. The watch is heavy and bulky but when the hands start their ballet, we totally forget this size topic to enjoy the magic of the time display.
I love Opus 12 because the technical features are at the service of the fascinating movements of the hands. It is not complex only to be complex. The watch is a true impressive achievement due to the numerous technical challenges but we never feel this complexity:
I love Opus 12 because the technical features are at the service of the fascinating movements of the hands. It is not complex only to be complex. The watch is a true impressive achievement due to the numerous technical challenges but we never feel this complexity:
2012 is an important year for the Premier collection with the first model featuring the new case.
Actually, Harry Winston did a great job with this evolution. The previous case had a lot of character but I found it a bit old-fashioned.
New case is softer and maybe lacks of personality when compared with the old one. But it is refined and when we observe it carefully, we find some nice details.
Its ratio diameter (41mm)/thickness (10,9mm) is very balanced.
This Excenter Timezone takes advantage of the retrograde hand to display a second time zone. Thanks to the night&day display, both timezones are based on a 24 hours system.
The base of the movement remains a GP caliber. Due to its size and its position, I would have preferred a solid caseback:
The details of the dial can be appreciated when the Premier Excenter Timezone is on the wrist:
I would like to finish the report with the Glamour side of Harry Winston. As I often say, Harry Winston without Glamour is not Harry Winston anymore!
Orla is wearing this amazing Ultimate Adornment timepiece. The timepiece pays tribute to the craftsmanship of Feather Art which can also be appreciated with the Premier Feathers collection unveiled at Basel this year. The watch is composed of 62 carats of diamonds and 14 feathers.
Orla is wearing this amazing Ultimate Adornment timepiece. The timepiece pays tribute to the craftsmanship of Feather Art which can also be appreciated with the Premier Feathers collection unveiled at Basel this year. The watch is composed of 62 carats of diamonds and 14 feathers.
I would like to thank a lot the Harry Winston team for the warm welcome during the Salon QP!
But we already have another appointment during the Salon Belles Montres in Paris next week.
So stay tuned, a new report will come soon!
Fx
This message has been edited by foversta on 2012-11-18 08:19:19
Salon QP 2012: Harry Winston
Like in 2011, Harry Winston was one of main exhibitors at the Salon QP 2012 occupying roughly the same place than the previous year on the groundfloor of the Saatchi Gallery. This presence symbolizes the ambition of Harry Winston on the British Market and...
Thanks, Foversta, as always, great photos and descriptions!
The midnight collection is growing on me... Cheers, TM
Me too Thomas...
I think that the Midnight case brought a new dimension to the collection. I was really seduced by the Midnight Automatic Blue dial, it is a watch I can consider. Fx
Thank you FX
Still under the charm of the Ocean Chronograph, marvellous looking watch, I loved the WG version.
